GUIDELINES TO VENICE
(To be read before and after leaving home)
First written on 15/11/91 revised 01/07/98 and 20/04/99
Views by Adčle and Renzo FANTONI (first directors and founders of HPS Hotel Reservations)
With an introduction by a friend
" All of us in our right minds long to go sooner or later to Venice; but we all find it a bit difficult, at least on our first visit, to adapt ourselves to our new environment, if only because Venice - which happens to use water the way other cities use concrete or cobble stones - presents its own problems.
No one is better qualified to understand these problems, and foreigners’ initial bewilderment, than the natives of the city who now live in London; hence Mr. and Mrs. Fantoni's quite admirable booklet.
To them and to their work I wish every success; and to all those making their first visit to this most magical of cities, the holidays of their lives"
GUIDELINES TO VENICE
After visiting Venice some forty times we came to the conclusion that we had not really savoured enough of Renzo's birthplace; so we decided to spend a month there, living more or less like Venetians, in a flat, working, shopping, walking, visiting, but above all looking about us. True to our expectations we discovered that there is a lot more to Venice than generally meets the visitor's eye. Day by day a fresh new Venice revealed itself. So we have decided to share with you some of our observations, certain that they will help your own discovery of Venice, a beguiling, bewildering, unique city without roads but with all streets traffic-free!!
VENICE IS DIFFERENT
(USEFUL INFORMATION & HINTS)
ORIGINS:
The islands of Venice were first settled about 1500 years ago by refugees from the mainland. By this time the Roman dominance had ceased this is the reason why you will not find any Roman ruins as in many other Italian cities.
Centuries ago it had many more islands canal and bridges than nowadays. Over the intervening years many canals have been filled-in to create more living space and calle, thus automatically reducing the number of islands and bridges. The STRADA NOVA, one of the main streets of Venice, underwent this treatment as recently as 1867.
Now there are about 120 islands, 150 canals and 400 bridges. You may find different statistics in various guides, but please accept them as given, as it seems impossible to find a consensus as to how many islands, canals and bridges exist in Venice.
SESTIERI (districts): Venice proper is divided into six SESTIERI: three on the right bank of the CANAL GRANDE (The Grand Canal) - CANNAREGIO, SAN MARCO and CASTELLO, and three on the left - SANTA CROCE, SAN POLO, DORSODURO.
It is interesting to note that the iron on the prow of the gondolas, called “il pettine” (the comb) depicts, by its half rounded top, the PONTE DI RIALTO (Rialto Bridge), it is also suggested that it may represent the ACIDARIO (the head covering of the Doges. The six frontal bars represent the six SESTIERI. The complex of 14 islands of the GIUDECCA, (thus named because in the XVI century the Jews (Giudei in Italian) had settled there before being moved to the Ghetto) formally known as SPINALUNGA, is part of the Sestriere of DORSODURO, but because of its detached location from the other islands of Venice is represented by the back facing spur.
ADDRESSES:
Many addresses give only the name of the SESTIERE and a number, this is because each SESTIERE has its own postal numeration which runs from 1 up to 6000 and, according to the Venetians, is generally easy to follow, in fact they are so sure that in many cases addresses have the name of the Sestiere and a civic number with no street name i.e. SAN MARCO 2345. Because of this sometime a tourist may have some difficult to locate ones hotel, however good agents will also give the name of the: Piazza, Calle, Campo etc.
Spelling of place names may vary from one end of one street to the other; this is because sometimes they are written in old Venetian, modern Venetian or in Italian. An added complication is that many places display present and former names.
Venice is different from other Italian cites also in the names given to the CALLE (street), PONTE (bridge), CAMPIELLO (square), SOTOPORTEGO (underpassage), FONDAMENTA (a paved way bordering a canal), FONTEGO (warehouse), etc. In other Italian cities there is an abundance of places dedicated to Italian Prime ministers, heroes, etc. Not so in Venice. The Venetians have, with only a few exceptions, such as Campo Manin the last president of the Republic of Venice, kept to the very ancient names which generally indicate: names of local churches, local trades like: Rio Terŕ del Forner (the filled in canal of the baker), Calle de le Furlane (a calle which must have been inhabited by women from the Friuli region), Calle della Fenice (a calle next to the Fenice theatre), there are also three Calle de l’Aseo (calle of the vinegar), Fontego dei Tedeschi or dei Greci (warehouses belonging to German or Greek merchants). Interesting to note is that the main street of Venice the STRADA NOVA, is or was apparently officially called Via Vittorio Emanuele, one of the Italian kings, but we never found anybody who would call it by that name.
TRANSPORTATION:
The waterways are the roads of Venice, and are used to transport people, goods, supplies and equipment, and by all the services such as: funeral, fire, police, ambulance, refuse collection and to celebrate weddings and festivals.
A limited number of "wheels" are used in Venice: push-chairs for children, wheel-chairs for disabled people, also the four-wheeled trolleys, specially designed to negotiate bridges, to carry goods or luggage from the landing stages to their destination.
If one sets aside the fact that in medieval times horses were in use, as recalled by several places called CAVALLO (horse) or a derivative such as Calle Cavalli, three of which are in Castello and two more in San Paolo, one finds that the transport system of Venice has not changed much. The main difference is that there are many motorised boats to complement the traditional rowing types; nonetheless the GONDOLA still reigns supreme as the symbol of Venice. Its design has not changes for centuries, they are widely used as traghetti (ferries) by the Venetians to cross the Grand Canal, occasionally for wedding but mostly by tourists for romantic rides or for groups while being serenaded generally with Neapolitan songs which are known all over the World in preference to the, in our opinion, more romantic Venetian barcaroles.
The landing stages are variously called PONTILI, APPRODI, or IMBARCADERI, but to simplify matters from now on we shall refer to them as PONTILE or PONTILI in the plural.
It should not be too difficult to find one's way around Venice. How you will reach your hotel on arrival depends on whether you have travelled by air, train or car; your agent should advise you before you leave in which part of Venice your hotel is located.
There are 10 water-bus lines serving Venice and the surrounding islands including the LINEA N - SERVIZIO NOTTURNO (all night services) which goes from PIAZZALE ROMA to SAN ZACCARIA (for St. Mark's Square) via the GRAND CANAL and the CANALE DELLA GIUDECCA.
On your arrival you may be concerned only with FOUR lines
If you arrive by bus, train or air
"LINEA 1 ACCELERATO" - "LINEA 82 DIRETTO" - "SERVIZIO ALILAGUNA"
If you arrive by car and your hotel is on the LIDO DI VENEZIA and want to have your car with you take the car ferry "LINEA 17 TRASPORTO AUTOMEZZI"
"LINEA 1 ACCELERATO" operates VAPORETTI (waterbuses) painted pale cream/black carrying just over 220 passengers. It is a circular service, which stops at each of the 21 PONTILI. It runs all year and its route goes from "PIAZZALE ROMA" along the CANAL GRANDE to the LIDO OF VENICE and viceversa. Its progress is slow but it may stop very close to your hotel; another advantage of using this route is that you enjoy at leisure the sights of the beautiful PALAZZI on both sides of the CANAL GRANDE, or CANALASO as it is called by the true Venetians.
"LINEA 82 DIRETTO" operates MOTOSCAFI painted white, carrying up to 160 passengers. It runs all year, it is not a circular service, so take care that it is convenient for your destination and that the boat you board goes in the direction you require as indicated at the entrance to the PONTILE. It goes from the TRONCHETTO-PIAZZALE ROMA (car parking area) to the FERROVIA (railway station) via the CANALE DELLA GIUDECCA to SAN ZACCARIA on the Riva degli Schiavoni, close to S. MARK'S SQUARE.
"SERVIZIO ALILAGUNA" operates 140 seater motorlaunches from MARCO POLO airport directly to
St. Mark's Square in the very heart of Venice.
"LINEA 17 TRASPORTO AUTOMEZZI" is a FERRYBOAT that operates all year round from TRONCHETTO to the LIDO for those who wish to have their car with them during their stay at the LIDO.
ARRIVALS:
If you arrive by air at VENICE MARCO POLO Airport at Tessera and:
a) Your hotel is located close to ST. MARKS' SQUARE, you may take a MOTOSCAFO of the SERVIZIO ALILAGUNA from the airport to the terminal - by the GIARDINETTI (once called Giardinetti Reali or Royal gardens) - at the MOLO (jetty) by ST. MARKS' SQUARE. It runs on average every 50 minutes and the journey takes about one hour. The MOTOSCAFO crosses the lagoon stopping only at the island of MURANO, the LIDO OF VENICE and at ARSENALE. The final approach reveals Venice in all her glory. It is relatively economic, fast and such a beautiful way to reach Venice that you may decide to use this service even if your hotel is in a different area.
b) Your hotel is located around the railway station and the air terminal, you may take a taxi or the airport bus which will deposit you at PIAZZALE ROMA, 20 runs each day; from there you may walk to your hotel or take a VAPORETTO.
c) Your hotel is located away from the two aforementioned locations you may arrive in Venice either by boat or bus and then take a water bus which goes closer to your destination.
If you arrive by train at the FERROVIA/STAZIONE DI SANTA LUCIA:
VAPORETTI and WATER-TAXIS to all destinations have landing stages just on the FONDAMENTA (embankment) at the foot of the station steps.
Hotel representatives are at hand, but accept their help only if you meet the one that represents your hotel or if you need a hotel reservation.
If you arrive by car: you will reach the end of the road to Venice after the PONTE DELLA LIBERTŔ that connects Venice to the mainland. There are two main parking areas for a total of 8000 cars - a large open car park and a multi-storey garage at TRONCHETTO - and a smaller multi-storey garage at PIAZZALE ROMA.
PIAZZALE ROMA is the place where all wheeled motorised traffic stops; hire car companies have their garages there, and all local autobuses to the mainland turn around there.
From THE TRONCHETTO you can take either LINEA 1 or 34. If you need the LINEA 2 go by regular waterbus to the PONTILE at PIAZZALE ROMA.
If you wish to take your car to the LIDO take the TRAGHETTO (car ferry) which departs only from the TRONCHETTO.
Private water-taxis are also widely available, but if you want one to await your arrival it must be reserved in advance; a price can be agreed, but be aware that should your arrival be delayed you may face extra charges. At present it is an economic proposition for a minimum of 8 persons travelling together.
Porters are generally available to facilitate tourists with heavy luggage or to find their hotel.
NOTES & HINTS:
1) PONTILI are used, unlike normal road traffic, by services going in both directions, so make sure you are on the correct PONTILE, check that you are boarding the vessel you want and listen to the announcement made by the sailor on board.
2) You are required to buy a full ticket for each passenger and each large piece of luggage, obtainable at the ticket office at most PONTILI.
3) For disabled persons the Venetian authorities recommend VAPORETTI as suitable vessels because of their size and slow speed; the faster MOTOSCAFI are considered too dangerous. They have also published a map illustrating the monuments, cultural institutions and certain areas that are accessible by people in wheelchairs.
4) All waterbus stops are marked with the name of the stop and some are also numbered in a sequence, which starts at PIAZZALE ROMA.
5) Some of the ticket offices are not open very early in the morning, late at night, or Sundays; one can board the VAPORETTO or MOTOSCAFO and pay on board but there is a small surcharge It may be advisable to buy a series of tickets that MUST be validated with a date machine available on each PONTILE, alternatively buy three-day or weekly passes.
6) Wherever you arrive you may wish to employ a porter; their fees, payable at your destination, are regulated by the authorities, but always ask first: "Quanto costa?” (How much) and if you think you are being overcharged discuss the fee with your hotel hall porter before paying.
7) Under no circumstances go to a different hotel from the one at which you have a reservation because the original hotel, even if you cancel at the last moment, is entitled to charge you for the reserved accommodation and so you may be liable to pay two hotels.
GETTING AROUND:
On arrival at your hotel ask for the booklet "UN OSPITE DI VENEZIA" (A Guest in Venice) written in Italian & English that is published and distributed by the HOTEL PORTERS' ASSOCIATION. It contains useful information, including a directory of fortnightly events (monthly in winter) and a small map; more detailed maps and guides are available from hotel porters, newsvendors and bookshops.
All you have to do is to decide what you want to visit, study the map carefully, choose your route either by foot or by water bus, then...ask the direction from the first Venetian you meet!
How can you recognise a Venetian? They do not carry cameras, video cameras, maps or luggage; their umbrellas are usually of the long type, men may carry a briefcase and/or a newspaper, if the newspaper is pink go for it, it is the Gazzetta dello Sport, (the daily sport paper); the older generation is generally carefully dressed, and the gentlemen give their arms to their ladies; the young ones are indistinguishable from young people all over the world, jeans and trainers being their uniform. Venetians often walk in pairs and talk to each other vivaciously.
In the bars, according to the time of the day, Venetians drink either espresso coffee or spritz (wine with soda or lemonade and at times with Campari bitter).
A Venetian will always answer a stranger in Italian but do not be downhearted if you understand only a little of the conversation amongst Venetians; they use a language that is more than a dialect, having its own literature, plays and operas.
Venetians are very friendly and helpful. Should they see that you are bewildered by their explanation and they have the time they will lead you to your destination or nearby, otherwise they may point out a direction and tell you to go "Tutto diritto" (straight ahead). If the place you want is particularly difficult to reach they will add ''E poi domandi ancora'' (and then ask again). For them it may be straight ahead, but you will soon discover that the route you follow has innumerable bends and you may start panicking, especially if you find that you have reached a bare wall or the edge of a canal without a bridge to cross. Stop and calmly retrace your steps, eventually you will find signs to put you on the correct route or somebody else to ask again. At strategic points, generally on first floor level, the Venetian authorities have carefully set up YELLOW arrowed direction signs for RIALTO, SAN MARCO, FERROVIA, ACCADEMIA, OSPEDALE, PIAZZALE ROMA etc., but do not be surprised if, standing on a corner, you are faced with two arrows going in opposite directions indicating the same destination. They are both valid!!
Venetians only take gondolas for weddings and funerals, but on a daily basis they use the TRAGHETTI (gondola ferries), six of which ply to and fro across the CANAL GRANDE.
A very busy TRAGHETTO is the one between CAMPO SANTA SOFIA off STRADA NOVA to the CAMPO PESCARIA at RIALTO where, in the morning, there is a most colourful and busy market for fish, fruit and vegetables.
Surprisingly only three bridges serve the CANAL GRANDE:
PONTE DEGLI SCALZI built in 1934, adjacent to the FERROVIA (railway station),
PONTE DI RIALTO first built in the 12th century and finally completed in stone in 1591. It is also the most imposing bridge, with one beautiful bold arch supporting two rows of attractive shops facing the central walkway plus two outer walkways,
PONTE DELL'ACCADEMIA by the ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI, originally built in iron in 1854, temporarily rebuilt in wood in 1932 and reconstructed in the 1980's in wood.
There are four ways to reach Venice: by sea, air, train and road; but when you have arrived there are only two ways to go around the town, by water or on foot. The advantage of the first is that you can enjoy at leisure the beauty of the city, taking innumerable photographs or hours of video. The advantage of the second, so long as you do not mind weaving your way through crowds of Venetians and visitors and walking up and down many of the 400 bridges, is that you may enjoy looking at the elegant shop windows offering local, national and international goods, but this diversion will automatically slow you down to the tempo of the town which, with all its apparent hustle and bustle, is a walking pace. In other words, there is no way that you can rush through Venice... unless you are a skilled and agile Venetian!!!
APPRECIATING:
Venice is living proof that the best things in life are free! Not all the works of art are in museums; inside many churches one can see works of art by famous artists altogether one can see in Venice painting of their most famous children such as: CARPACCIO, GIORGIONE, TITIAN, TINTORETTO, TIEPOLO, VERROCCHIO, GUARDI, CANALETTO and many more
Fifteen centuries of architecture: ROMANESQUE, BYZANTINE, GOTHIC, VENETIAN GOTHIC, VENETIAN RENAISSANCE, BAROQUE, ROCOCO, by CODUSSI, LONGHENA, SANSOVINO, PALLADIO, etc. and, albeit rare, MODERN architecture, is intermingled and can be admired by all.
Venetian sights are not confined to eye-level, many beautiful unique details are found high up: elaborate chimneys, ALTANE (roof-top terraces and gardens) balconies, windows, friezes, family crests, commemorative inscriptions, frescoes, mosaics, lamps, shop signs and everywhere on stone, bronze, gold and red flags, paintings, door knockers, carrier-bags, statues etc. the ever present lion of St. Mark’s.
Do not be too disappointed if you find that the church or palazzo you wish to visit is cocooned in wood or plastic. In fact you should rejoice, because yet another building is being restored to its former glory; you should be particularly proud because much of the work is carried out under the auspices of " THE VENICE IN PERIL FUND" (The British Committee for the Preservation of Venice) which has raised money for at least ten projects, amongst which are the restoration of the interior and exterior of the church MADONNA DELL'ORTO, the LOGGETTA DEL SANSOVINO (the open gallery at the base of the bell tower in St. Marks' Square), and the MOSAICS in the Basilica on the island of TORCELLO.
Recently the CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO (the bell tower of St. Mark) was cocooned for renovation. It was originally build on roman foundations and in stark roman style beginning in the IX century and modified at various stages between the XII and the XVI centuries. The Golden angel was added in 1513 and its height and brightness served as a beacon to sailors. It was hit several times by lightning and shaken by various earthquakes, eventually it collapsed in on itself on the XIV July 1902 with no human loss, the legend says the golden angel fell standing at the entrance of the cathedral, now it is again in its original position at the top of the Campanile.
Many different suggestions were put forward of how the new Campanile should look, eventually the traditionalists won and it was rebuild “Dov’era e com’era” (where it was and as it was), the first stone being laid in 1903 and the new campanile was inaugurated on XXV April 1912 St. Mark’s Day.
THE LIONS OF VENICE
The lion of St. Mark has been the emblem of Venice ever since that saint has replaces St. Theodore as the patron saint of Venice. It appears not only on its flag but on churches, monuments and buildings, sometimes he holds a sword, sometimes a flag, occasionally the Doge’s ceremonial flag and almost all the time it carries a book, mostly open, showing the words of an angel to Mark when he had visited to the lagoon four centuries before the foundation of Venice, “PAX TIBI MARCE EVANGELISTA MEUS“ (Peace unto thee Mark my Evangelist) but at time with no wording or closed indicating its displeasure. The lion always represented the Serenissima or the Dominante. Nowadays the powerful Serenissima has disappeared and the Venetians have replaced the lion with their smaller the cats. On occasion your eyes will be met by the eyes of one or more cats perched on balconies, garden walls, trees; in fact you will meet well fed cats, alone or in groups in practically every quiet CALLE (lane) or CAMPO (paved field frequently with an old POZZO (well) in the centre).
Not all the lions look the same mostly because some were fashioned in Venice but many other we war booty from all over the Mediterranean basin, in fact the two wingless large placed at either side of the Arsenale were captured from the Partenone in 1685. Rumour goes that some even came from China as their feature indicates. Most of them reflect a different mood or a stance: the lion above the main gate of the ARSENALE has its paw on the open book which however is blank indicating the Venetians’ readiness to wage war in defence of its territories.
The two lion show a very different mood on opposite side of the statue of KING VICTOR EMANUEL II the first king of Italy, on the Riva degli Schiavoni at San Zaccaria. Looking towards the Arsenale there is a dejected lion with lowered wings in a raging mood roaring its displeasure and tearing at the chains, he lays at the foot of a bedraggled and defeated Serenissima. On the opposite side facing the Piazzetta there is a triumphant lion, it has successfully broken its chains and is roaring its triumph with elevated wings squatting at the feet of a serene Venice, one of the lion’s foot rests on the book which shows the overwhelming figures with the result of the referendum held amongst the Venetians in 1866 whether to accept annexation of Venice to the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.
On the statue commemorating the hero DANIELE MANIN (1804-1857), a descendent of the Veronese Jewish Medina family, who converted to Christianity in the 18th century, in CAMPO MANIN the lion has empty eye sockets and lowered wings, showing the sorrow of the Venetians for his death. Daniele Manin was the last president of the last Venetian Republic and his sarcophagus is placed on the outer wall of the San Mark’s Cathedral by the PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI the Square of the little pink marble lions, on whose back every Venetian child has been photographed, he could not be buried inside the Cathedral because of his Jewish origins.
The lion located on top of the column in the Piazzetta is probably the most controversial of all, the book lays flat and open but the front feet of the lion rest on it, probably indicating that Venice was supreme and it would not accept the dominance of the church, in fact Venice resisted many orders from the Popes and was excommunicated at least twice.
Another example of the importance which the Venetians gave to the sovereignty of Venice is represented on the facade of the Doge’s Palace and above the Porta della Carta which lead into the Palace, in both cases the Doge appears with the lions of St. Mark but he in kneeling in front of the lion indicating that the role of the Doge was to serve the Republic and not to dominate it.
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE.
Following the fire that was destroyed all but the facade has now been rebuilt to its former splendour.
UNUSUAL SIGHTS AND CURIOSITIES:
Venice offers many sights and the choice is bewildering. If one has only a short time available it may be advisable to join one or more of the walking tours of the city with a guide; such visits are organised by various travel agents, your hotel hall porter will be able to suggest some names and arrange the tours. After the tour you may wish to return to the same place and look again at leisure.
LA SCALA DEL BOVOLO
(The snail’s staircase) is in our opinion one of the hidden architectural treasures of Venice. It is a marble spiral staircase built in the XV century outside the palace of the Contarini family, subsequently nicknamed del BOVOLO. The palace is found in the small Corte (square) of the Maltese also called Risi, in the parrocchia (parish) of San Paterniano. At first it is not easy to see it because it is behind railings and plants but the effort to find it is well worth while.
THE OLDEST PHARMACY
The Farmacia Ponci is found in Strada Nova almost opposite the church of Santa Fosca. It is built with beams in the Sansovino style, with XVII century dark walnut carved furniture and traditional characteristic majolica chemists’ vases created in Venice in the XVIII century.
BACCARO
This is a favourite meeting place for the true Venetians, it is a mixture of the English pub where you meet the regulars, and a local bar, the difference is that there most people order CICHETTI and OMBRE DE VIN. Cichetti are little snacks that may be small open toasted sandwiches or small fried fishes or legs of octopus, small sausages, mushrooms, etc. The OMBRA is a small measure of wine 1/8th of a litre. The origin of this name is the following. Piazza San Marco, like many other squares all over Europe used to be a market place. There the farmers would conclude their bargaining with the local merchants and to seal the agreement properly they drank this small measure of wine, but the wine merchants wanted to keep their bottles and barrels in a cool area so they stationed themselves in the OMBRA (shade) of the CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO, thus the name for the small glass of wine.
LA VECIA COL VASO - (The old lady with the pot)
Leaving St. Mark's square passing under the TORRE DELL’OROLOGIO with the DUE MORI (two slaves wielding hammers to mark time on the bell), a very few meters into the MERCERIE on the left is a covered walkway, just above the arch that leads to this dark street, there is a stone bas-relief of an old lady leaning out of a window holding a pot (do not ask what kind). The story goes that the morning of 15th June 1310 a group of rebels on horseback was crossing the Mercerie to go to the Doges’ Palace to depose him, the old lady heard the commotion and looked down while holding the heavy pot in her hands. One does not know if she dropped it because she had a fright or whether she had aimed it, but it hit the leader on the head and he fell. Seeing their leader on the ground his followers panicked and fled. The attempted revolt was halted. In gratitude the Venetians decided to commemorate the event, immortalising in stone the event where it happened.
VENETIAN JUSTICE
When you visit the PALAZZO DUCALE (Doge’s Palace) you see in the corridor on the side facing the gate on the lagoon opposite the island of San Giorgio some marble plaques of various sizes; they record for posterity the names of officials of the SERENISSIMA REPUBBLICA (The Most Serene Republic, as Venice was known), who had taken advantage of their position to cheat the exchequer. Their names, misdeeds and penalties are recorded forever in stone.
Once, even when Renzo was a child, naughty little children were warned that they would end between MARCO E TODARO (Mark & Theodore). These are the two columns facing the lagoon in the PIAZZETTA by St. Mark's Square. On top of one is the of figure St. Theodore (TODARO the first patron of Venice), on top of the other is the lion of St.Mark (MARCO the second and present patron of Venice). It was customary to behead murderers and traitors in the space between the two columns, thus the threat to little children.
EL POVARO FORNARETO: high up on the side of St. Mark's Cathedral facing the lagoon one may see a small shrine with a flickering red light, more visible at night. It commemorates the POVARO FORNARETO (the poor little baker). He was a young bread carrier who was accused of having robbed a visitor to Venice. The evidence was considered strong enough to have him executed between MARCO E TODARO. After his death they found the real culprit and the authorities ordered the shrine to remember forever the injustice perpetrated against the POVARO FORNARETO.
THE JEWISH GHETTO
In 1516 the Republic, at the instigation of the Pope, it was decided that the Jews had to live in only one area of the city and choice, was in the parish of S. Girolamo, because it was easiest be patrolled by boats at night it was named "Ghetto Novo", the name Ghetto or Gheto in Venetian was used because in that area there used to be foundry -getto in Italian. Thus the first ghetto of Europe came into existence. Soon it became too small for the large number of Jews who came to Venice because of its prosperity and the large trade with many parts of the world from the Middle East to China (see Marco Polo) they came from many areas: Germany, Spain, Portugal, France, Greece, Turkey and they built a total of 5 Synagogues, therefore another area the Ghetto Vecchio was added. Today it is a lively and thriving quarter, only two of the Synagogues are still open to service the Spagnola, build by the Jews who came from the Iberian peninsula and the Ponentina, build by the Jews from eastern southern Europe, mainly Greece, the other three are part of the Jewish Museum. To be noted that because of the crowded situation when up to 5000 Jews lived there they built upwards and some buildings had up to seven storeys possibly the first skyscrapers. Even thought there was no interference with the Jewish practices there were severe penalties for any converted Jews who would consort to closely with the Jews at the entrance of the Ghetto there is still a large marble plaque listing all the penalties that could be imposed, none were so severe as the Auto da Fe' or the burning alive adopted in Spain for the same offences.
FLOODING (HIGH TIDES):
For six months of the year you will find, at strategic points in the city, piles of metal trestles and planks of wood; they are not forgotten builders' debris, they are there to be erected as walking platforms during the seasonal high tides which submerge many parts of Venice at regular and irregular intervals. St. Marks' Square is a special case, it becomes submerged before other areas because under it still runs the CANALE BOTARIO which was interred when the BASILICA DI SAN MARCO and the PALAZZO DUCALE were built. When not in official use these platforms are put to other uses, not intended by the authorities, such as picnic tables by day-trippers and as stalls by unlicensed street vendors.
Do not be alarmed if you hear "air-raid" type sirens; they are warning you that the high tide is expected to reach over 1.10 meters above the average sea level, thus flooding some parts of Venice, and another field day for the rubber boots salesmen.
SERIOUS WARNING:
If you are caught by the high waters, under no circumstances be tempted, even if you see others doing so, to remove your shoes and walk barefoot. As soon as possible wash you’re feet and shoes carefully under plenty of fresh running water because the floodwater is saline and sometimes corrosive.
TELEPHONE SERVICES:
Generally hotels will charge the basic cost for telephone calls but should you wish to call from public telephones (SIP) they are easily recognisable by their brilliant orange colour. They are scattered all over the city and are often found in clusters by the PONTILI. You may use Euro coins but for long-distance calls it is more convenient to use a CARTA TELEFONICA (telephone card) which can be purchased at shops called TABACCHI (tobacconist) where one can also purchase, stamps, matches, cigarettes, cigarette lighters, salt all things that are considered MONOPOLY OF THE STATE i.e. subject to special tax.
CURRENCY:
Euro are generally better purchased in Britain before leaving because you could get a better exchange rate. Of course you will have no problems in exchanging your Pounds Sterling or travellers cheques in Venice; money exchange bureaux exhibit the exchange rates in their windows, some charge a commission and some do not, but what may seem a good rate may not be so good once the commission has been deducted, therefore do your calculations before finalising the transaction. All major credit cards are accepted in most places.
VENETIAN FOOD is different from other parts of Italy and is mostly based on local produce: fish, rice and POLENTA (ground maize boiled into a firm porridge). Nowadays other foods have been introduced but some of the following traditional specialities should be savoured whilst in Venice:
POLENTA E FIGA` A LA VENEZIANA - polenta accompanied by calf’s liver and onions cooked in deep oil
POLENTA E FRITO MISTO CON SALATINA - polenta served with mixed Adriatic fried fish and salad
POLENTA E BACCALA' MANTECATO or POLENTA CON BACCALA' ALLA VISENTINA - polenta with dried cod reconstituted and prepared in a variety of tasty dishes
POLENTA E SEPE IN TOCETO - polenta with cuttle fish stewed in its own ink
RISOTTO - rice, served as a first course, cooked with many varied ingredients:
RISI E BISI - rice cooked with peas
RISI E FUNGHI - rice with wild mushrooms
RISI E SEPE or RISI CON VONGOLE - rice cooked with either cuttle fish or baby clams
PASTA of all types can be served with the same ingredients as RISOTTO - some are:
PASTA E FASOI - thick red bean soup with any type of pasta generally short like PENETTE or MACCHERONI
BIGOLI IN SALSA - whole-wheat spaghetti seasoned with salted sardines or anchovies fried with onions.
PASTA E OCA, home-made egg noodles with a meat sauce of breast of goose. This was a favourite, seldom affordable, dish of the gondoliers. A story goes that gondoliers would boast aloud that they had eaten "pasta e oca", the phrase later becoming a shouted warning before rounding the corner of a canal.
So many dishes are now made with pasta, rice and polenta served with vegetable and fruit sauces that a vegetarian should not have any difficulty in selecting preferred dishes.
Venetian dishes can be accompanied by a variety of good red and white local wines such as: Merlot, Valpolicella, Cabernet, Soave, Pinot; a favourite is Prosecco, a sparkling dry white wine, which is offered by the Venetian with or without food and drunk at any time of day or night on any pretext.
Many hotels have good restaurants but for variety you will find any number of large and small restaurants, snack bars and pizzerias, which offer either elaborate ŕ la cŕrte dishes and/or reasonably priced set menus
RESTAURANTS:
We have enjoyed eating in a variety of places amongst which we can suggest the following restaurants that are listed only on a loose geographical sequence from CANNAREGIO to CASTELLO.
Every restaurant has a weekly closing day but often this is not enforced during high seasons.
When you pay a bill in a restaurant, hotel or shop demand a RICEVUTA FISCALE (VAT receipt); because in the street you may be asked to produce it by a FINANZIERE (custom officer) easily recognisable by his grey-green uniform with yellow flames on the collar, and should you not have it, you and the suppliers may be fined.
RISTORANTE LES DEUX LIONS
At the Hotel Londra Palace. An evening rendezvous with a piano bar for those who love a large selection of French and Venetian dishes; unusual snacks are served during the day. In good weather tables are set up on the RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI facing the ISLAND OF SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE. Note at the entrance the two lions representing MOLIERE and GOLDONI or French and Venetian cultures.
Dinner reservations are advisable.
RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI 4171 CASTELLO tel. 0415200533
HOSTARIA DA FRANZ
Located in the oldest part of Venice, CASTELLO, close to the ARSENALE. Intimate atmosphere, seats 40, very high quality, air-conditioned, famous FISH ONLY RESTAURANT, and of course pastas, risotti and polenta, offers home-made desserts and ice creams and choice wines. In summer additional tables are set up by the canal facing the walls of the church of S. ISEPO. It is necessary to telephone this family run restaurant for reservations.
VAPORETTO LINEA 1 at PONTILE N.17 GIARDINI
FONDAMENTA SAN ISEPO, 754 CASTELLO tel. 0415220861
PS After your visit to Venice we believe you will find that there is a great deal that you have not had time to see. Be encouraged by our experience - we have found, after forty visits and a stay of one month, that we still have a lot more to discover in Venice.
We shall return. (In fact since 1991 we have returned 15 times)
We trust that you will too.... A.R.F. & R.R.F.
USEFUL INFORMATION - ADDRESSES AND TELEPHONES NUMBERS:
SHOPPING HOURS:
Officially 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. & 4 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. five and a half days per week, half day closing Monday mornings. Many shops now open on Sunday.
BBC WORLD SERVICE: to keep in touch with news from home and abroad take a short wave radio with you. At different times of the day the BBC can be received on any of the following wavelengths (in kHz): 15575 - 15070 - 12095 - 9750 - 9410 - 648 - 150.
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